Madeleines!

Here it is! A classic Madeleine recipe that recalls the experience we recently had in Paris—simplicity at its very best. The joy of madeleines goes beyond merely tasting good, and is rooted in their unique structure. The shell shape ensures a pleasantly crisp, browned top (or base, considering the pan), which gives way to a dense, soft, domed cake. (Dense in a good way—like a cake doughnut.) This dichotomy is what I find addicting about them; each bite has a different, rewarding ratio of crisp:soft.

Flavor-wise, they are pretty subtle, and it’s after the initial dramatic textural impression that the butter and vanilla really come through. Joining browned butter with vanilla bean creates a uniquely delicious flavor—and then the rum sends it over the top.

Of course, adding spices or citrus zest would be delicious. But honestly, if I want those flavors I’d just make muffins! The classic flavor is really not wanting for anything, and keeping the Madeleine straightforward preserves its magic.

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Classic Madeleines

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Yields 20

Ingredients

200 g unsalted butter

1/2 vanilla bean pod

1-1/2 (heaping) cup (200 g) all-purpose flour

1 T baking powder

pinch salt

1/4 cup (60 g) milk, left at room temp for 1 hr

1-1/2 T (30 g) honey

1 t vanilla

2 T dark rum

3 eggs, room temperature

1/2 cup + 2 T (130 g) sugar

Begin with browning the butter: in a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and let cook until it’s bubbling at a leisurely pace, smells nutty, and when swirled, bubbles give way to a golden-brown hued melted butter underneath. Once the desired shade of brown is achieved, immediately pour into a small heat-proof bowl to let cool, scraping the brown bits on the bottom of the pan if desired (the milk solids, lots of flavor!). Add the scraped vanilla bean seeds, followed by the entire pod, to the hot browned butter and stir around a bit so that the seeds will disperse. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. In a liquid measuring cup, whisk together the milk, honey, vanilla, and rum. Set both aside.

In a medium-large bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar until thick and opaque (can use stand mixer for this step); mixture will be ready when it drips off of a lifted whisk and forms a “ribbon” atop the rest of the mixture.

Fold the dry ingredients into the egg/sugar mixture, careful not to over-mix. Next fold in the wet ingredients, careful not to over-mix. Finally, pour in the browned butter (discard vanilla bean), and gently fold into the batter.

Transfer to large Tupperware container or tightly cover the bowl, and refrigerate overnight.

When ready to bake: preheat the oven to 400 F and generously butter the shells of a Madeleine pan. Scoop 2 tablespoon of the cold batter into each shell (don’t want to overfill!), and bake for 5 minutes before turning the oven back to 375 F. Continue baking for about 12 more minutes, or until the top of the Madeleines are just firm to the touch (they will still be quite pale), and the edges are darkened.

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One more note—madeleines are most definitely at their best for just a few short hours after baking. Just glaze any leftovers if you’d like to counteract this.

Whisk together about 1/2-3/4 cup powdered sugar and the juice from 1/2 a lemon (or 2 T maple syrup + 1 T water)! Add more powdered sugar or liquid if needed—you want it to be thick enough to dry and set nicely, and not just be absorbed and then run off!

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rye coffee cakes with fruit & nut variations!

For whatever the reason, my mind tends to skip over coffee cakes when I think of breakfast pastries. I suppose I like goods that come with a host of variables, flavor options, etc., and messing with the classic butter, sugar, & cinnamon composition seems silly, so it generally just doesn’t enter my thoughts at all....

…until I was sick a few weeks ago, and “taking it easy” for me means spontaneous baking. These two coffee cakes were the result, one with pears and hazelnuts and the other with apples and walnuts, and I just loved them. The flavors and textures come together to yield a really comforting pastry, cozy but also intriguing. I measure deliciousness by how difficult it is to walk away without another bite, and these passed that test all too well.

I was so excited about them, and then was distraught upon realizing that I was in no shape to be out and about sharing food with anyone—except my toddler, the origin of my cold I am sure! Let’s just say I’m looking forward to the rainy day that I pull these out of the freezer for a play date!

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Rye Coffee Cakes

Yields one 9” round coffee cake or two 6” round coffee cakes

Streusel:

  • 1 cup (130 g) all-purpose flour

  • 3/4 cup (90 g) rye flour

  • 3/4 cup (160 g) light brown sugar

  • 1 (generous) t kosher salt

  • 1 t cinnamon

  • 1/8 t cardamom

  • 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks; 170 g) unsalted butter, cold & cubed

  • 1 cup (120 g) roughly chopped pecans, walnuts, or hazelnuts (peeled)

Cake:

  • 1 cup (130 g) all-purpose flour

  • 1 cup (120 g) rye flour

  • 1 t baking powder

  • 3/4 t baking soda

  • 3/4 t kosher salt

  • 1 t cinnamon

  • 1/2 t cardamom

  • 3/4 cup (1.5 sticks; 171 g) unsalted butter, room temperature

  • 1/2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar

  • 1/3 cup, packed (70 g) light brown sugar

  • 2 eggs, room temperature

  • 1 t vanilla extract

  • 3/4 cup (180 g) buttermilk, room temperature

  • 1/4 cup (60 g) creme fraiche

  • 1 large apple (I used Honeycrisp) or 2 medium pears, cut into 1/2”-1” cubes

Directions:

pre-bake!

pre-bake!

  1. Make the streusel: In a small/medium bowl, whisk together all ingredients aside from the butter. Once thoroughly combined, use your fingertips to work the cold/cubed butter into the mixture until it comes together in small/medium clumps. Add/incorporate the nuts and refrigerate until needed.

  2. Make the cake: Pre-heat the oven to 350 F, and butter one 9” cake pan or two 6” cake pans and line with parchment. Whisk together the dry ingredients in a medium bowl and set aside. Add the vanilla extract to the measured & tempering buttermilk.

  3. In a the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, combine the sugars and butter and mix until quite light and fluffy, about 10 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly after each addition.

  4. Add the dry ingredients in three additions alternating with the buttermilk/vanilla, stopping the mixer as soon as each addition is nearly incorporated (to avoid over-mixing), and scraping the sides after each addition. Finally, using a large spatula, fold the creme fraiche into the batter.

  5. Pour into the prepared pan(s), and top with the diced fruit. Sprinkle with the nut streusel and bake for about 1.25 hours (about 45 minutes to an hour for the 6” cakes), or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean, and the top middle of the cake feels firm to the touch. Set on a cooling rack until cool enough to handle safely with a towel or oven mitt, and invert onto a plate (so it catches the streusel) before inverting again, either back to the cooling rack or serving plate. Enjoy!

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